New York Restaurant Review: Buttermilk joy at Clinton Street Baking Co.

If buttermilk biscuits are your god, then your holiest of pilgrimages must lead you to the Clinton Street Baking Company and Restaurant. Map: 4 Clinton Street (between East Houston and Stanton).

And a life is unlived unless these menu items have been embraced, the first couple in conjunction with the biscuit:

  1. The maple butter, ordered separately, will unmercifully pump decadent sweetness straight to your soul with torrential vigor.
  2. The house raspberry jam, included with your biscuit order, will joyfully slay any pious groping for a sugar-free life.
  3. The sauce topping their huevos rancheros (creamy, spicy, green).
  4. The cheese grits (queso needs more friends like these grits).

The crowd: Locals plus a phenomenal stream of, if my language identification is correct, Japanese tourists.

The staff: Helpful, friendly and fast.

The wait: Every time I have been, it has been busy, and a wait, though typically of a bearable 10 to 20 minutes, almost always ensues.

The layout: It is a bit cramped, but not quite to the point of knocking elbows with your neighbor. Walking to the bathroom will entail ample sidestepping to make room for busboys and servers.

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